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Jacques Suurmond

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...:: Training ::...


These dogs, with a natural bite, can often be recognised when they are only a puppy; they hang in just about anything, they are biting the blood from your legs and are definitely not impressed when you try to keep them away from you. Once they get a hold of something which you want to take from them, they growl and snarl.

Once we are ready to start the training with the young dog, we make them BITE and LET GO with only the sleeve and after that with the full biteworker suit. The biteworker will provoke the dog and try to get him angry. After this the dog bites.

Jan Scheele and Arie vom Domburgerland 1 Owner: Jacques Suurmond

Jan Scheele and Arie vom Domburgerland 2 Owner: Jacques Suurmond

If the dog bit correctly, and has fought with the biteworker for some time, we make the biteworker hold still and we release the dog calm and controlled from the sleeve. The biteworker takes back a few steps and then runs away, threatening and shouting. The dog will bark like crazy, and he is taken of the training field, without any further biting. It is here were the most mistakes are made, by allowing the dog to bite too much; if the dogs bite was OK the first time, never let him bite a second time. After all, his bite was fine, why make him bite again? This applies for the complete defence training; do not let him bite more often than necessary, this way the dog keeps his motivation for one hard bite. It is not bad at all to take the dog up on the training field and firing him up without making him bite. The biteworker however must always run away when you are finished.

The biteworker has to make the dog stronger, which is the task of a good helper.

Amos Nitra www.koenigshoehle.at

The next step in police dog training is the so-called “TEACHING A DOG TO AIM CORRECTLY”. With this we mean teaching the dog to bite the suite at the correct spot. In this we distinguish “ARM AIMING” and “LEG AIMING”. The helper fires up the dog and when he thinks the dog is ready to bite, in case of “arm aiming”, he offers his shoulder with arm to bite, and in the second case (leg aiming) his leg. The handler keeps a hold of the dog with 2 hands on the leather collar and sets the dog into position. With arm aiming, the helper should keep his hand on his back, the dog has to bite in the upper arm, just under the shoulder. When the dog is sitting in the correct position, the helper can take his hand of his back.

Nicky Kostum 2 www.koenigshoehle.at

Legbite Pakwerk "Nooit Gedacht"

In all disciplines, attention must be paid to a full, hard bite. Seen from aside, there should not be any air between the corners of the mouth and the sleeve, or the suit. This is a very important exercise, as long as this is not performed perfectly, you should not continue with bitework. It all comes down to good timing, for the helper as well as for the handler. After the biting, the dog must let go and this can be followed by the protection exercise. After the dog lets go, the handler leaves the training field were he tries to make the dog follow him.

The leg aiming is less spectacular, at many KNPV clubs it is common use to let the dog bite the arm with an incoming biteworker and to bite the leg at an escaping biteworker or at the hold-up of the handler. At the so-called “bike aiming” nowadays almost always is aimed for the leg because of the risks for the dog and the helper. The arm aimer gets a deduction of points.

At the IPO and VH program it is all much simpler; here the dog always bites the sleeve. After letting go, the dog can bite again and is rewarded with the sleeve. To teach the dog to keep hold of the sleeve in a controlled way, the handler walks around the training field with the dog and returns to the biteworker, or leaves the field. This is al done according to the philosophy of the IPO to get the dog interested in the sleeve.

Aysha of the lonely Shepherd, carrying the sleeve. Owner: Jacques Suurmond

I will not deny the good results that have been made with this kind of sport training, especially with less strong dogs. However I do regret the fact that with real good dogs, the same method is used, which I think is a result of not enough knowledge to train the dog using its natural aggression. Another obvious cause is that you can start much sooner with bitework when using the catch drive method. People just do not allow a dog to grow up before starting all this. It is all GO 1,2,3 get on it, throw in a breeding survey, breed and take part in contests.

Part 1| Part 2| Part 3 | Part 4|
Part 5| Part 6| Part 7| Part 8|
Part 9| Part 10|

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